In the Val, Po! (7/29-30)

We went to Valparaiso for the weekend. We discovered that hostels here are a lot like bed and breakfasts in the states, but way cheaper! Some are aimed at students or hikers, they frequently fit the vagrant youth stereotype. But others are nicer, more appealing to the older, touring crowd. We discovered El Rincon Marino with its owners Luis and Marisa. They both were super friendly, the rooms were beautiful (maritime theme), and the food was good. We spent the late night hours playing cards with Luis getting to know each other.

While in Valpo. we visited another of Pablo Neruda's houses. I think we've now seen all the ones he had in Chile. He was quite the diplomat, and lived in several different countries, though. And, he had plans to build a fourth house that was spiraled using ramps because in his old age he was having trouble with stairs. But he died before building began. His houses though always have amazing views, colored glass, boat remnants, and unique architecture. I will have to write more about this poet later.

We went to the port to watch ships, and ended up on a boat. At first it was irritating, they sang out the daily special and swarmed you if you walked too close. You wished they would be quiet so you could enjoy the view. (You see this kind of advertisement everywhere. It occurs to me that Chileans are equally hesitant, but willing to inquire about bargains. It seems to me that this means of advertisement could be improved with a sign, display where all could see. But then we wouldn't have the unique cultural experience to take home with us.) After watching for a while and wishing we could see the ships closer, we inquired about the ride around the port on a boat. For $2,000 pesos (less than $2 USD) you would get a guided 30 minute tour of the harbour. It was well worth it! We saw ships up close, enjoyed the humorous comments throughout the tour, saw a sealion up close, and took some great digital camera footage. (I took videos of the sealion and container unloading.) We were immensely glad we investigated.

We also spent a lot of time taking walking tours of Valparaiso. We followed one through historic Valparaiso and one looking at outdoor murals. We rode funicular cars that ascended and decended amidst pink, blue, and green houses. These walking tours took us down winding alleys I wouldn't have known were there, yet alone walked down! There were stairs going up steep banks that had street names!! And, houses were built so close together, on cliffs, and over other buildings that roofs were used for advertising!!! There was definitely a bohemian, artsy quality about it all. Like an urban labyrinth that seemed to be its own micro-community in Valparaiso. Really rather amazing! This city seems so complex we couldn't even explore one of the 42 hills entirely.

It occurred to me that Valparaiso is so close (an hours drive) and spending the night is so cheap (about $20 USD) that we could come back another weekend sometime soon. It sure is nice to get out of Santiago from time to time.