Christmas Eve (12/24)

Christmas Eve seems to be the big celebration here. Families get together and go to church, have dinner and open presents. Christmas day is relaxed and tranquil. Families spend it together in their homes. We were invited to spend Christmas with Andres and Priscilla. We took a chocolate cake, presents, games and drinks.

Andres' mom, stepdad, and grandmother were there when we arrived. We sat and talked some while Benjamin played. We had some wine and a lovely roast beef dinner. We played dominoes and ate some chocolate cake. Then we opened the presents. When all the gifts were opened, we put Bejamin's new toys together and played with them. (Yes, even the adults!) When Andres' family went home, we stayed and talked, watched a movie, and almost spent the night. (We left around 4 am.) There is just something about being with this family. We always stay way longer than we plan or imagine. It was a nice evening.

Church Thoughts (12/24)

Our departure date is getting close. Today, the day before Christmas, was the last Sunday we will be attending church in Santiago. (Next Sunday, God-willing, we will be in Vina Del Mar celebrating the New Year.) So, we said our farewells to all our church friends. We always felt so welcomed at this church. I admire some of these people greatly, partly for their affection and mostly for their ability to deal with the tough issues present in Santiago. Sometimes, I felt that our relationships were motivated by funny things, like curiosity or language envy. But, the church people opened their arms and made us feel like there was a place for us where we fit perfectly. And we certainly have made some close friends. (Some of these friends will be with us next weekend.)

Besides saying good-bye, we received bad news about Esteban's mother. Both of Estaban's parents are blind and taking care of Esteban and his older sister is difficult for them I am sure. But, their mother has been diagnosed with terminal cancer and is dying. She is no longer able to be very involved in their care. Esteban, age 5, knows that she is dying and has been more active and aggressive towards others. Church people are trying to show affection and curb his rough behaviors, but it takes a lot of patience. It's a tough situation.

Another Church friend story has to do with a young man named Claudio. He is the oldest of five brothers, a good student, and a developing artist. He draws graffiti with a purpose and recommends visiting this site and this site to view graffiti. He made one to hang in the Youth classroom at church. I guess I am just giving him some publicity. I just think it's amazing that God can use anybody's talent for His purposes.

After almost a year, I would hate to just let these relationships fade away. E-mail will have to maintain these relationships. At any rate, I know there will always be friends here for us in Chile.

An "Interesting" Evening (12/23)

Violence is a terrible thing. It's scarring.

Deb and I had gone to see the kiddie's Christmas program at church. We spent lots of time talking, and then decided to walk through the plaza and down a pedestrian street to where we usually catch the bus. The Nutcracker ballet was being put on for the general public, there were lots of Christmas lights, and we were finally feeling in the Christmas spirit. We strolled taking in the sights and sounds. There were more people out than usual and lots of performers taking advantage of the generosity in the air. Deb and I decided to stop and get dinner. Anticucho con papas fritas (kabobs with fries). While standing in the door, we witnessed a harsh reality that I just can't stop replaying in my mind.

The commotion caught my attention, then staged itself on the street in front of the eatery. Apparently, the aggressor felt the youth had stolen something and managed to catch him. He held him on the ground in choke hold, while the youth pleaded, and an old lady screamed her accusations. Only after a second or two did I realize that there was a board involved. The youth slipped out of the choke hold, but not away from the aggressor. With one arm clamped on the chap, he demanded recompense, the youth denied guilt, and the old lady screamed. That's when the hitting began. First it was low and hesitant. But, after a few blows, they were primarily directed at the head and with a fierceness that took my breath. I wanted to intervene. Actually, I wanted someone else to intervene. I couldn't believe we all stood there and watched it. The pleading look on the youth's face as he tried to protect himself is burned into my mind. The sound of the board cracking his head and the knowledge of the wounds being inflicted makes me feel numb. Then all the action left as fast as it came. I stood there stunned for a second. And then I acted like nothing happened and went on with my life.

I wonder about that youth.

Despedidas (12/22)

It seems that everyone wants to take Deb out for a farewell party. I think she went out for lunch or dinner every day this week. And, I was actually invited to some too. Today we had two in one day.

The first was with truck drivers Deb works with. We all went out together before and it was a lot of fun. So I knew it would be a good time. We were whisked off to a mystery restaurant called the "Viking" where the decor was very viking!!! We ate some great seafood (even Deb tried some) and took lots of pictures of each other. (They had just gotten a digital camera!)

The second party was with church friends. We went to Jessica and Roberto's house and ate (more) pan de pascua (fruitcake) and tres leches cake and drank cola de mono (Chile's version of wassail but with milk), we played dominos and cards, and joked around. We had a good time just being with friends. The festivities finally came to an end around 3:30 am.

Between all the gifts and parties, I feel like people have been incredibly kind to us. I almost feel bad because they have done so much for us all the while, and then at the end they make such a big deal out of our departure. (Maybe they are really happy we are leaving?!?) It's no wonder they say the rest of the world is cold in comparison to Chile! They sure know how to make someone feel like staying.

Packing and Shopping (12/21+22)

So, now that school is out I SHOULD be packing. And I did a little. But, I spent most of my time Christmas shopping! We have not felt Christmas spirit at all. It's been so warm, and time passes quickly when you are not carefully planning. So we have few Christmas presents with only two days left.

The Real End At Last (12/20)

I suppose one of the disadvantages about being a first year Lincoln teacher is that I don't have a clue. It seems that students keep coming back even though school is over. As it turns out, the grade cards were to be given out during the days on Monday and Tuesday. I also saw some students at the seniors graduation cerimony on Wednesday. And, it seemed that I kept getting presents too. Then there were teacher good-byes. We had so much free time. Teachers were planning for next year, making decorations, and inventing things to occupy time. I myself played dominoes, Perudo, and took trips to Lider for coffee.

Wednesday was the hardest day though. Everyone passed out gifts. I gave elementary teachers a rose, because, like my time in Chile, they are with us but a short while and are very beautiful. These people have been very kind to take me under there wing for a short while and make me feel at home (even if they did call me their "little gringito" sometimes). There was an everyone invited dinner and drinks at a local restaurant on Thursday, but I just couldn't go. The good-byes had already been stretched out so long. Better to bid farewell and end it.

Pily's Party (12/16)

My partner in crime (meaning the other fourth grade teacher) demanded my presence at her house for a party. She literally told me I didn't have a choice, I was to attend. (Period!) Now, Pily is a spicely lady. She is definitely Chilean, and I am definitely not. (For example, she told me the party was at 8pm, but I asked her what time she wanted me to ring her doorbell and she said 9pm.) It has been a truly interesting year (good and bad) and I don't regret a thing. There were 9 Lincoln teachers there. We drank a little alcohol, ate some, talked and laughed a lot. I get the impression that they will always think of me as a cute gringito in all of my ways. In the end, I think they feel as good about the year as I do. I think I passed.

I mean, The Last Day? (12/15)

I didn't know that I would be responsible for students before the graduation ceremony until they started comng into my classroom. I thought they would come and be with parents and I would just be one of the audience. But, NO. I had to entertain them for about 45 minutes until we all walked to the assembly together. Granted, it wasn't really an obligation for students. Out of 22, only nine of my students came. So we played dominoes. We had a lot of fun. Then we went to the ceremony where lots of students behaved terribly. Talking, walking around, not really paying attention. But, I wasn't really embarrassed (definitely annoyed) because parents were just the same!!! Oh well. It was good to see (even a few of) the kiddies again. Some of them actually admitted to being bored already.

They will probably pop in again. I have to give report cards to parents during the school day on Monday and Tuesday of next week. This will be the last last time. I guess the really like to drag the end out.

Andy (12/14)

The son of Deb's co-worker (a salesman that travels a lot from the US to S.A.) is staying with us for a couple of days because he wants to get a job in Chile and live here. Andy's father is Cuban, he has lots of family in Venezuela, he's lived all of his life in the States, and he talks like a gringo (though, I think better than I after being here for a year). He came down on the spur of the moment because we had dinner with his dad and some other ADS people one evening last week and suggested that if he wanted to get a job he should come to Chile soon while schools still have hours. Anyway, Deb and I both work, so he has been on his own during the day. But, when I come home we go out to see Santiago. It's been fun taking him around. He's a nice guy and has been easy to get to know. I think he's enjoyed staying with us, even if his job hunting hasn't been terribly productive. He did speak with the director of Lincoln and things went very well. But, I think things for next year have been kind of set and there really aren't any openings. We'll have to see.

Machu Picchu (12/10)

How do you describe Machu Picchu? A remote mountaintop ruin with an inconclusive history and only recently discovered. Images I've seen portray the beauty and mystery, but that doesn't really give you much.

Deb and I attempted to see Machu Picchu in a whirlwind fashion. We rode four hours from Cusco up the mountain in train, back and forth on switchback tracks and then through gorgeous mountain scenery. We left the train station at a bright and early 6:15 am. As we peered from our windows, we saw what Peru is really like, from its shanties to its glory. I was glued to my window the whole way, flashing pictures all the while.

We got off the train in Aguas Calientes, a tourist town that caters to the foreigners visiting Machu Picchu, and took a bus the rest of the way to the park entrance. This ride was equally amazing because we traveled on very narrow, very windy rodes up the mountain. It was evident the whole way that a mistake on the drivers part would be fatal. Lush vegitation hung all around, opening occasionally to behold a vast valley below. We mingled with clouds and drizzle as we drove, but the mystery of Machu Picchu's location was clear.

And when we actually ascended on foot and looked out over the ruins, the majesty and mystery practically overwhelmed me. The size of the ruins, altitude of the location, and the clouds rolling over the mountain really amplified the wonder. Why here? What purpose did this place have for the disappeared Incan civilization?

Our guide told us that Machu Picchu is believed to be a special temple where only a few could enter. Almost 150 mummies were found in the ruins and all but about 20 were women, either human offerings or cloistered wives of the gods. It is believed that these mummies were mounted on the wall in special nitches surrounding the living with memories of their sacrifice. Special buildings were centers of study, worship, and ceremony. Astronomy and proximity to the gods were part of the reason for the mountaintop monestary. Terraces were built to prevent erosion, allow for farming, and provide vegetal ornamentation. But, the stonework remaining more than 500 years later surpasses my ability to fathom. Without fancy tools or mortar, they built earthquake-resistant structures that lasted centuries.

The "Andean Cross" (the half sunk rock with steps on each side) demonstrates the religious beliefs of the Incans. Four layers of three; sacred animals, levels of being, valued character qualities, and obligation of citizenship. Then there were the gods, including the sun, moon, stars, rainbow, fertility and many more. Priests were royalty, ruled only by the Inca (or king) who was the religious leader.

It must have been amazing to be a member of this community and wake up every morning to see this every day. I am sure it wasn't an easy life, with lots of hard work and the fears of pleasing the gods. But, I don't think we could ever know what it was like for sure. We can just guess, which adds to the mystery in it all.

Inca and Espanola (12/9)

The Incan influence is apparent everywhere you look. Most Peruvians are very indigenous looking. They were bright colors and patterns that are typically associated with indians of the area. And old indigenous stone structures are peeking out all over. In fact, a lot of the Spaniards beautiful, colonial buildings were built with or on other structures made by the Incans.

But we were given a real taste of the Incan prowess in stonework when we went to the Sacsayhuaman ruins. We started the tour on our own, and we were enjoying taking pictures and wondering about the ruins. But, a gentleman approached and began explaining things that we saw and he became our guide for whatever tip we gave him. He was very informative, telling all about the levels of life in Incan belief. The snake represented knowledge and the underworld, the puma life and all that surrounds us, and the condor is the afterlife and mediator between man and the gods. He explained practices and pointed out objects we didn't see or understand. He also explained more how the Incans managed to get the big stones in their places, place them without mortar and make them resistant to earthquakes.

One of Cusco's cathedrals was an Incan temple that Spaniards destroyed and turned into a church. Apparently, the Spaniards were particularly impressed with this temple because of all the gold and silver. They promptly melted all this and turned it into coins and sacred pieces for their use. It was indeed a shame to lose all this precious history, but really the Incans were just as bad as the Spaniards. They sacked the Quechua people that lived there before Incans conquered the area. All is fair in love and expanding the kingdom, I suppose.

Another intreaging detail, Spaniards wanted the comforts of home, including art. So they developed the Cusqueno School of Art. These Peruvian people were taught to copy the European style. They made fancy Borroque portraits, but included little details that were entirely indigenous to the area. One rather well know case is a picture of the last supper that displayed food native to Peru -- guinea pig. (Yeah, they eat guinea pigs.) Anyway, Spaniards took over, but indigenous culture remained as well.

Cusco, Peru (12/8)

With the long weekend and two days vacation, Deb and I headed to Peru. Machu Picchu was the real draw, but we spent two days in Cusco before going to these Incan ruins. Cusco, was recommended to us because you have to get accustomed to the altitude. Headaches, shortness of breath, nausea, and fatigue can all be results of drastic altitude changes. After we arrived, we learned that Cusco is actually almost 3,000 feet higher than Machu Picchu. Therefore, one could say that it cures you of your Machu Picchu altitude sickness by means of being harder on you than Machu Picchu. We experienced little problems though, thanks primarily to coca tea.

But we definitely experienced shortness of breath. We would walk up 5 or so steps then stop and pant, so that we could walk up 5 more steps and stop and pant again.

The most amazing thing about Cusco (in my mind) would have to be its architecture. The churches in their Cusqueña Barroque or Roccoco style boggled my mind. Excessive excessivism. (A shame you can't take pictures in many of these places.) These incredible cathedrals with lots of ornamentation and paintings everywhere one could squeeze a painting located in this little pueblito in the mountains. Does that seems odd to anyone? There were also other colonial, European style palaces with ornate balconies. And the central plaza was breath-taking. I was constantly in awe of the architecture.
Now, not all of Cusco is beautiful buildings. In fact, there were lots of houses of mud brick and, even some of scrap wood, tin, and cardboard. These houses showed the reality of life in Cusco for most of its population. Peru struggles with poverty on a much greater scale than Chile. It was hard for us lucky gringos to believe some of the conditions these people live in. We are lucky, and everybody there knew it. So, what did they do? Beg. About half of our "out and about" time in Cusco was spent dodging people who were begging or trying to sell us something. This was so hard for both of us. I want to help. Sometimes we gave money or bought something, but we really can't make a difference in their situation. The hardest thing for me is to see little kids begging. It's just so unfair. In Cusco there were times when I felt so overwhelmed by the number of people that attacked us I just wanted to run away. Thinking about it now depresses me.

Despite this we enjoyed the shops, found restaurants that listed guinea pig on the menu (a Peruvian delicacy), and felt a sense of accomplishment in navigating the town and encounters. There really is a charm to Cusco. It feels like a different time or era of civilization. It could definitely be described as "old world".

Last Day (12/7)

No tests, a little cleaning, a party and "Chao!" I was surprised about all the presents, but I won't be back and they know it. I was a little sentimental at times, but I don't feel great loss. I am already transitioning. My one foot is already facing the US. I will miss them, it's true. But I feel ready for the break. Bless their hearts, they probably do too.

You may ask what I will be doing until the last teacher day, December 21st. I am not exactly sure, but I have grades to tally, report cards to complete, the BOOK to fill out (damn thing), and the classroom to clean up. It sure seems that there will be plenty of time to do that. In fact, I have already been playing dominoes and a dice game (a poker face, guess my bluff game called Perudo) during school hours as a "smoke break". Yeah, these early dismissal days have been rough. But, I think I see the light at the end of the tunnel.

The School Year Is Ending (12/1)

Back home we don't really have "final exams" -- not like here anyway. As I prepared final exams, I was told that I needed to incorporate the material from the entire school year. Well, we covered a lot of material during the year. So you can imagine the tests were long. I did give them a list of things to study and sent home study guides so that at least they had a good idea what was on the test. But, I am still sure that it seemed looming and daunting to study for a test where anything from the school year could be asked.

I won't say it was torture for them. Here students got out early so they could go home and study. The last two weeks of school students only come to school for the first three periods. And every other day is a test day. The final exams took at least two periods, but then we had fun activities to review for the next exam. But, then they went home to prepare for the next exam. (At least, that's what they were supposed to be doing.)

This final exam grade then is worth one fifth of the year's final average in each subject. That's a lot of weight, especially if you don't do well. So, it was important to everybody that students do well on their finals. I also just recently found out that if students end the year with a "D" in two or more subjects they have to repeat the year. I am praying for some of the students.

Camping Out!!! (12/2)

I didn't sleep a wink! Does that surprise you? The children went to bed around 2:30am, but I still heard some around 4am. And everyone was up by 7:30am. I was surprised!

But, even I thought the camp out was fun. At least, most of it was. It started off a little rough. First, I arrived at the time teachers were supposed to arrive (an hour before the students). But none of the other teachers came until the student arrival time. Then, students came early. There were about ten students and their parents AND ME. I was beginning to panic! Then all the parents started putting up tents and kids ran around playing. This was not how it was supposed to be at all!!! So I took their ball and told them to go put up their own tents. And they did. But then setting up camp took lots longer then it was supposed to and one teacher inserted a game that wasn't on the schedule, so we gradually got farther and farther behind our scheduled times for activities. It was suggested that we could throw out something from our schedule. But after all our planning and making "teamwork" the point of camping out, I just didn't want to give anything up.

But the activities went well and we had lots of fun. We spent time reflecting on teamwork and group dynamics after each activity. Parents stayed later than planned and participated in very helpful ways. I even really got into the games. We played a commando-"teachers vs. students" game that allowed me to sneak around and scare students with a flashlight. When I came out dressed in all black, students looked at me like I just went Gothic before their eyes. And I scared the -BLEEP!- out of them several times. I had so much fun! And I really didn't mind going without sleep. Three of us stayed up all night around the campfire. I enjoyed this time with them.

Anyway, we got lots of compliments on our camp out from parents. I took lots of pictures. And, administration really was proud of our initiative in teaching "teamwork". I am glad we did it!